ARRIBADO EN CHILE

SANTIAGO - as I exited the metro, I puzzled over the upside-down right-side up map (where south is up and north is down but in fact that's exactly how it is!!), I dragged my heavy home on my back till I reached Dona Ximena's 'residencia'. I later set out to explore the old centre where majestic leftovers from colonial times stand proud, elegant architecture of the Plaza de Armas with evangelist preachers ranting into space and old-time bands playing merry tunes, elegantly dressed senoras on parade, conservative bankers and radical students out for lunch... Up the cable cars to pay my respects to San Cristobal (the travellers' companion) and get a glimpse of the possibly snow-covered Andes which were in fact well hidden by smog...Busily devouring the language of Cervantes & enjoying the familiarity of Spanish influence - however the Museum of Pre-Columbian Art reminds us of how the conquistadores melted down all that glistened... later an exhibition of Mapuche people and their jewelery, a visit to the house where Pablo Neruda hid Maltide, a 'chope' (cool beer) in Bellavista where the streets are buzzing

VALPARAISO - driving to the coast through vineyards, mountains beyond. Arriving at what was once a major port before the days of the Panama Canal - an extensive bay rises into 'cerros' or hills dotted with colourful houses and cobbled lanes - rickety cable cars make the ascent that bit easier. From the Mirador - a few chapters of Isabel Allende's'My Invented Country' accompanied by a glass of Santa Carolina and a majestic view of the port and its colourful containers. An evening at J.Cruz - an old time bar specialising in 'chorillana'. I willingly engaged in a conversation with the patrons about farming, banking, and the weather whilst I struggled through my oversized portion of fried papas, onion & beef.
Wish list for next time in Chile - the north: Atacama desert in spring where the rains fill the barren lands with purple & orange petals, & the south: Patagonia in summer & more...